Hadley Grass: aka Asparagus

Image: Hadley Asparagus, Lisa M. Careau

Asparagus has been around since at least the time of the ancient Egyptians. As civilizations spread around the globe, this distinctive crop was transplanted, too. Today, China is considered the "Asparagus Capital of the World" producing about 7 million metric tons annually—compared to the US where it's grown commercially in California, Michigan, and Washington state, its production share is just 0.4%.

But it wasn't always this way; in fact, this distinctive herb was once cultivated in vast amounts in Massachusetts, particularly around the Pioneer Valley. For many in western Massachusetts, Hadley asparagus is a rite of spring, and as its name suggests, there's a relationship to reconcile between this perennial crop and the town of Hadley, Massachusetts.

The cultivation of asparagus in Hadley began with the influx of Polish immigrants to the area in the late 19th and early 20th centuries (Czajkowski, Smiarowski, Waskiewicz remain local family farm names). With the cool New England Springs and sandy composition of the valley's fertile soil being particularly conducive to the crop, these families began dedicating their acreage to fields of asparagus. Within a few generations, Hadley began embracing the moniker, "Asparagus Capital of the World", eventually producing 80-90% of the state's Mary Washington variety by the mid-20th century.

Sadly, it all came to a rather abrupt end by the mid-1970s, when a soil-borne fungus rapidly spread, decimating the area's asparagus industry. Farmers plowed under their fields and then shifted their attention primarily to potatoes and tobacco. Eventually, though, new disease-resistant varieties became available, and now, more and more local farms are offering Hadley asparagus, once again.

You won't likely find it, though, on any restaurant menu; its limited quantities make it just too expensive to sell beyond the local farmers market. For a brief time, between May and June, those in the know (local yokels) wait with great anticipation for Hadley asparagus to appear at particular roadside farm stands. Typically, an average size bunch sells for about $5.00.

There are many ways to prepare asparagus. Here's my current favorite riff, cut on the bias, then tossed in a pungent, tangy glaze and roasted to crisp-tender perfection:

2 T. olive oil

1 T. white wine vinegar

1 t. capers (small bud)

1 t. Dijon mustard

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

salt and pepper, generous (to taste)

1 bunch of fresh asparagus, trimmed and washed

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Mix together the first seven ingredients, whisking to emulsify. Set aside.

Cut the asparagus on the bias, about 1/4 inch thick.

Combine the dressing and the asparagus, and spread evenly over a shallow metal pan lightly coated with cooking spray.

Bake for 8 minutes undisturbed, then shake the pan, and bake another 8 minutes. Serve hot or cold.